NeOmega Fairmile "B" Sub-hunter
Posted: Sat Jun 13, 2026 6:49 am
NeOmega Fairmile “B” Sub-hunter
Hi all, I bought this when it was first released but have only now had time to build it due to other projects getting in the way. As I'm building it now, I,v seen some other build reviews by other modellers so know some of the challengers ahead.
So, the first job was to make a display base as I wanted to show the whole of the boat so cut the waste from the hull and measured where to place the home-made mounting pedestals. Next came the display base it-self. This was made from MDF, the boat provisionally fitted to get the right position & then removed and the base was painted. I always make my bases so I can later fit a display cover if I want. (I get my display covers at “Display Case UK Ltd” not too expensive and good service) Now to the build proper. I cleaned up the hull sides and deck with a slight rub over with a scotch bright just to give the paint that comes later something to grip. Now onto the first problem. Some other modelers seemed to have a problem fitting the bridge/deckhouse. Now even before cutting the part free I can see what they mean. I tackled this after removing it from the printing supports by scaping off the centre of the under-surface to create a slight cavity in the mouldering, when this was done, I removed about 2mm from the casting fore and aft so it would fit the hull depression on the deck. Then I used hot water to straighten the deckhouse behind the bridge structure. Result is an almost perfect fit. (It goes without saying you must handle the part carefully as the bridge sides are quite thin.) The messy job putting the depression in the bridge undersurface. You can see the front cut under way of the undersurface I made to fit the deck depression. Did one to the back end also. This is the dry fit photo
I painted the inside of the wheelhouse a dark grey and then fitted the window glazing. Windows masked with small squares of Tamiya masking tape and the bridge fixed to the deck. (I used “Araldite” to fix the glazing and the bridge to the deck) Bridge structure now on and slight gab filled/blended in with some PVA type glue
Hi all, I bought this when it was first released but have only now had time to build it due to other projects getting in the way. As I'm building it now, I,v seen some other build reviews by other modellers so know some of the challengers ahead.
So, the first job was to make a display base as I wanted to show the whole of the boat so cut the waste from the hull and measured where to place the home-made mounting pedestals. Next came the display base it-self. This was made from MDF, the boat provisionally fitted to get the right position & then removed and the base was painted. I always make my bases so I can later fit a display cover if I want. (I get my display covers at “Display Case UK Ltd” not too expensive and good service) Now to the build proper. I cleaned up the hull sides and deck with a slight rub over with a scotch bright just to give the paint that comes later something to grip. Now onto the first problem. Some other modelers seemed to have a problem fitting the bridge/deckhouse. Now even before cutting the part free I can see what they mean. I tackled this after removing it from the printing supports by scaping off the centre of the under-surface to create a slight cavity in the mouldering, when this was done, I removed about 2mm from the casting fore and aft so it would fit the hull depression on the deck. Then I used hot water to straighten the deckhouse behind the bridge structure. Result is an almost perfect fit. (It goes without saying you must handle the part carefully as the bridge sides are quite thin.) The messy job putting the depression in the bridge undersurface. You can see the front cut under way of the undersurface I made to fit the deck depression. Did one to the back end also. This is the dry fit photo
I painted the inside of the wheelhouse a dark grey and then fitted the window glazing. Windows masked with small squares of Tamiya masking tape and the bridge fixed to the deck. (I used “Araldite” to fix the glazing and the bridge to the deck) Bridge structure now on and slight gab filled/blended in with some PVA type glue